The timeless wisdom of Wabi-Sabi teaches us that nothing lasts and nothing is finished. Those familiar with the Japanese art and philosophy of Wabi-Sabi will no doubt appreciate Memoir’s understated elegance. More than formal, more than special, Memoir is beautifully melancholic. Working with Perfumer Karine Vinchon Spehner, the composition brilliantly juxtaposes the shrouded greenery of wormwood, absinth, basil and mint against the traditionally-formal and fougeric components of lavender, oakmoss, tobacco and sandalwood. Memoir Man (2010): One of my all-time favorite fragrances, I used to think of Memoir (Man) as an olfactive journey through a haunted forest-while wearing a tuxedo. This red-carpet stunner is a celebration of one’s achievements, the factors which brought someone to a point in history and a celebration of what’s ahead. The feminine counterpart, Jubilation 25, gives a nod to a bygone era of perfumery while remaining thoroughly contemporary. Jubilation XXV was my wedding day scent and never fails to evoke fond memories. The crimson and gold I perceive comes from the top and mid-notes of blackberry, cinnamon and honey. The masculine variation, Jubilation XXV, incorporates the scent profile for which Amouage would come to be known: the “ Amouade” of silver frankincense, ambergris and myrrh. Created in partnership with master perfumers Bertrand Duchaufour and Lucas Sieuzac, both the masculine and feminine variations of Jubilation evoke the texture and colors of a lush, crimson theatre curtain trimmed in gold. Jubilation XXV and 25 (2008): Upon assuming the creative helm of Amouage in 2007, Christopher Chong’s first release was the pair of fragrances launched to commemorate the brand’s 25th anniversary. Each spray tells a story each spray tells his story. A better idea, I humbly recommend, would be to revisit the fruits of his labor, the fragrances themselves. Chong gave over the years for a glimpse into his history and his heart. Chong said in a 2011 interview with CaFleureBon, “It begins with a feeling and then this feeling is elaborated into a story. I am inspired by everything around me.” One could turn to numerous interviews Mr. “My creative process is very personal,” Mr. In the words of Freud himself, “ Love and work are the cornerstones of our humanness.” Seems like the perfect place to begin a celebration, a reflection on the man himself, the man with the vision for an art form invisible. As such, I once called him the Sigmund Freud of perfumery. His success was predicated on his unique ability to liquefy the human condition. His vision for Amouage was emotional, contemplative and cerebral, forged through creative parallels in music, history and thought. This is only the end of the beginning.” While he may describe his time at Amouage as merely the beginning, he, no doubt, reached the heart notes. Chong alluded to forthcoming opportunities, “This is not a swan song, but rather a short interlude to enable me to focus on new projects and new challenges, so watch this space. Chong revealed that he would be leaving the renowned Omani perfume house after twelve years as Creative Director. In a surprise announcement last month, Mr. Apple had Steve Jobs, Chanel had Karl Lagerfeld and Amouage had Christopher Chong. Once in a rare while, a visionary finds his or her place in the world. “Creating a fragrance is like telling a story…” – Christopher Chong Christopher Chong 2019 Photo by Jay Brooks©
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